SUSTAINABLE CASHMERE
THE ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
Pure has set up a program to tackle the root cause of desertification caused by over grazing of cashmere goats in the Mongolian grasslands. It is a small start but if every other company were to follow, the ecologically sensitive grasslands could begin to reclaim the land that has become desert in recent years through over grazing.
The problem is that the goat does not just eat the grass but it also takes the grass root as well and once the root is taken the grass withers and dies leaving dry arid land that is soon transformed into desert with environmental consequences such as huge sandstorms that stretch further than China and as far as the USA and Europe.
As a small company working with a commodity that is traded globally, our ability to affect change may be modest but we have made a start by working closely with suppliers and local communities to promote sustainability in the industry with the hope that others will follow.
THE PURE SUSTAINABLE CASHMERE STORY
In 2003 Pure set a target to source 100% of its cashmere from goat herds farmed in a sustainable way by the end of 2009. Our goal has been to source all our cashmere from goats farmed in controlled areas, either indoors or outdoors, thus avoiding the devastation caused by the steady increase in the numbers of goats grazing on the ecologically sensitive Mongolian grasslands.
There have been many issues to consider and we have worked closely with our partners setting up research programs to study the best way to achieve our target without affecting quality of the cashmere fibre itself.
Genetics and extreme low temperatures are key determinants of the quality of fibre a goat produces, but what a goat eats, and how much they eat, not only affects its quality but also the quantity of fibre produced. Not surprisingly we have had to overcome resistance from nomadic goat herders, with ancient nomadic traditions, who have been asked to spend more on feed instead of grazing their goats free on the ecologically sensitive grasslands. Whilst they can achieve a higher yield by feeding the goats a more nutritious diet, the worldwide increase in the cost of animal feed has more than offset the increased yield and thus an incentive in the price is necessary to maintain compliance.
Simultaneously, there has also been welcomed support from the Chinese government, who has acted to both restrict the numbers of herders and also provide subsidies for herders to feed their goats in controlled areas.
PURE PROGRESS
Pure is the first and only cashmere brand that uses 100% sustainable cashmere. Since April 2008 every 100% cashmere garment that bears the Pure label has been produced using cashmere acquired from sustainable sources.
All of this has been achieved with a small increase in the cost of the fibre itself, which Pure has been able to absorb due to other economies of scale within the business. In fact these economies have enabled us to actually reduce our prices as the business has become more efficient.
Crucially there has been no detriment to the quality of the fibre itself. Pure continues to use not only the finest quality cashmere in the world, but it is now produced in a sustainable way. A perfect outcome for everyone.